Dispatches from Everest: preparing for the final assault

19th

Dispatches from Everest: preparing for the final assault

May 2010

From Eric Kapitulik, friend of the Naval Institute.

As you read this, Eric is attempting to summit Everest.

Via the North Face.

Without. Oxygen.

This is the fifth in a series posts dispatched from the slopes of Mt. Everest, leading to his planned ascent on or about May 19th.

May 15, 2010

Teammates,

I have spent the last eight days staring at a wind and snow swept Chomolungma from Everest Base Camp (BC). High winds and severe cold have made a summit attempt impossible. That is about to change…

After studying the most recent weather forecasts for the Everest Region, my climbing partners and I have decided to leave BC on Sunday morning, May 16^th to attempt our final assault on Mt. Everest. We will depart BC early and hike to Interim Camp (IC) at 18,000’. After an early breakfast on Monday morning, we will continue to hike up the East Rongbuk Glacier to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 21,000’. The plan is to spend two or three days at ABC before continuing our climb to The North Col/ Camp 1 at 23,500’ on Wednesday, May 19^th or Thursday, May 20^th.

Departing Camp 1 to Camp 2 represents our commitment to a summit attempt so we will be checking weather frequently after arriving to see how conditions are improving/ deteriorating at higher altitudes. Right now, although the weather looks good, it is still very unpredictable. Should we decide to continue, it will be an approximate 6- 8 hour hike to Camp 2 (25,250’) where we will spend the night prior to departing for Camp 3 at 27,000’.

During our 6 hour hike to Camp 3 the following day, we will cross into “The Death Zone,” the altitude where our bodies lose the ability to regenerate and slowly begin to die. Upon reaching Camp 3, we will eat and rest as much as possible for a few hours before departing for the summit of Mt. Everest at 29,028’ (approx Sunday, May 23^rd).

After a successful summit, we will head as far back down the mountain as possible based on our own physical and mental condition, time and weather. Although the primary goal is to get back down out of The Death Zone, I would like to return as far as Camp 1 where I will spend the night prior to returning to ABC and BC.

I hope to be able to email you a photo from the top of the world in 8- 12 days. I can’t promise that I will be able to do so, but I do promise that I have prepared my body for the challenge I am about to subject it. Further, I promise that I will try my best…

Regards,

Eric

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Eric Kapitulik graduated from USNA with the class of 1995, was commissioned in the USMC and assigned to the First Marine Division as an Infantry Officer. He would later complete the selection process to serve with the 1st Force Reconnaissance Company as a Platoon and Detachment Commander.

He is an avid climber and Ironman competitor; climbing 6 of the 7 highest peaks. Number 7 is Everest. Eric holds an MBA from the University of Chicago and is the founder and CEO of The Program.